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Skincare—deep-seated, bespoke, and sustainable

The evolving business of making people more beautiful


By Dr. Kaycee Reyes


Skin care has always been a major commodity in the Philippines as represented by a multitude of available brands in huge and small retail channels such as department stores, supermarkets, and convenience stores. These products vary in packaging style and sizes as some are evidently luxurious and available in huge packs while others in small sachets to target mass consumers.

Rise in skincare consumption, as reflected in the eight percent current value growth last 2016 by Euromonitor International, reflects upgrade in lifestyle and increasing presence of sophisticated young Millennials. Moreover, the Internet social media boom made beauty consumer more educated and engaged with beauty brands. This is reflected by the five percent compound annual growth rate (CAGR) value of skin care at constant 2016 prices, and this is expected to reach R50.8 billion in 2021.

In the Philippines, the use of facial masks and serum has been the center of 2017 consumption for Filipinos. But newer and more innovative products and services are now thriving in the market, especially in the international scene. Below are the top trends to expect in 2018 that will shape how brands grow trends across different categories in a global scale.

1. Customization

Nowadays, bespoke or made-to-order isn’t only applicable to fashion and interior design.  Even skin care, fragrances, and cosmetics can now be customized to suit consumers’ personal lifestyle, skin type, skin tone, and preferred look. Consumers now are more selective and have a strong knowledge of ingredient and formula benefits, so individualized concoctions are being made to meet these distinct demands and needs.

Now, international companies are providing a base serum and base creams that address key concerns in general, such as clearing serum, moisturizing serum, and clarifying serum. Optional actives with active concentrates are then being added depending on the concern of the client. For example, if the client’s main concern is brightening, active concentrates such as arbutin, aloesin, niacinamide, and vitamin C are added. For pigmentation problems, heavier concentrates such as kojic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, and even hydroquinone are put in place. But these should be supervised by a skin care professional since heavier actives have their side effects, too, if not used properly.

2. Sustainability

People are now becoming more conscious of the impact of their purchase consumption to the environment and on society. They are now more aware of the raw materials and source origins of their purchases. That is why cosmeceutical companies are substituting animal-derived ingredients products to organic or natural sources that do not impact the ecosystem and biodiversity. This allows the development of innovative skincare solutions that have natural formulations and that would promote zero waste and ethical living. But consumers also want a sustainable product,which shows better performance and have combined results of effectivity and innovation. This drives the producer cosmetic companies to be more innovative and more concentrated on research for the betterment of product development.

3. Sweat-/Wear-proof makeup

Film formers are starting to be more popular now since it enables makeup to withstand exercise and be selfie-ready at any moment. This covers 20 to 35 year olds who have the highest social media use and who frequent the gym more than the usual hangouts like clubs and bars. Today’s generation views active lifestyle or being athletic as the “new sexy” so as much as possible, they want to look good, too, especially if they spend more hours in the gym or outdoors doing athletic activities. Since most makeup may clog the pores, structured skincare makeup made of natural ingredients are favored for the sweat-proof and #wokeuplikethis look.

4. Nutricosmetics

Nutricosmetics are what we call now as the “ingestable beauties.” These connects the gap between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, paving the way for the development of oral supplements that would improve general health and skin nutrition. One very common example of this is the pre- and probiotics that have been introduced a couple of years ago and now in high demand due to its role in the gut flora health and skin care.

Another emerging oral supplement available in the market is “Restore,” a soil-based mineral supplement that promises to create a firewall against toxins entering the gut wall, thus restoring the alkalinity of the body. Some studies have provided support to this claim but more scientific data are still needed to seal its efficacy in the market.

5. High Definition (HD) beauty

Cosmetic industry is being shaped now by professional makeup artists, beauty bloggers/vloggers, and beauty professionals who have the capacity to provide direct interaction with their followers via social media. With this, digital consumers look for a High Definition or “Photoshopped” effect with the use of professional skincare and makeup products. Even hyaluronic acid injectables or commonly called “liquid facelift” are being used now together with makeup to target perfection and achieve the High Definition beauty. People are more open now to new technologies like combining good skincare with laser and injectables so they can age gracefully, and smartly.

This is an exciting time to witness fast paced changes in beauty scene since consumers are more knowledgeable and discerning now. Beauty brands are trying to keep up by combining continuous innovation, technology, and maximum efficacy to deliver individualized client’s needs that can sustain ethical living through greening up of carbon footprint. Truly, beauty in a global scale means continuous evolution and innovation. And with these new innovations, we can conclude that the best time to evolve is now.

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